May is when Norway wakes up from winter. The snow is melting in the lowlands, the days are getting longer, and by late May, you're treated to the incredible midnight sun – when the sun never fully sets and the sky glows pink at midnight. Combine that with dramatic fjords, steep mountains, waterfalls, and some of the best roads in Europe, and you have one of the world's greatest road trips.
This itinerary focuses on Norway's western fjords – Geirangerfjord, Sognefjord, and the dramatic coast around Bergen and Flåm. May is the perfect time to go: the winter crowds are gone, the summer tourist season hasn't hit full swing yet, prices are lower, and you get the full midnight sun experience starting around May 20.
I've done this road trip twice in May, and this is the perfect 10-day itinerary that hits all the highlights without rushing.
At a Glance
- Destination: Western Norway (Bergen → Flåm → Geiranger → Bergen loop)
- Recommended Duration: 10 days
- Best Time to Go: Mid-May to mid-June (midnight sun starts in late May)
- Per Person Budget: NOK 8,500-13,000 (≈€750-€1150 / $800-$1230)
- Difficulty: Moderate (roads are excellent, but long driving days)
- Perfect for: Nature lovers, photographers, adventure travelers
Getting There & Car Rental
Start and end your trip in Bergen, Norway's second city on the west coast. Bergen has an international airport with direct flights from most major European cities.
Car Rental Tips
- Type of car: For May, a normal 2WD car is fine – most main roads are clear of snow by mid-May. If you want to go up some of the mountain passes, check conditions, but generally they're open by May.
- Transmission: Manual is standard and cheaper. Automatic costs extra.
- Size: You don't need an SUV unless you're going off the main roads. A comfortable compact or mid-size car is perfect.
- Cost: NOK 600-1200 per day (≈€55-€110), cheaper for weekly rentals.
- Important: Get a car with good headlights – you'll be driving during the midnight sun (which is more like twilight) and good visibility helps.
The 10-Day Fjords & Midnight Sun Itinerary
This is a loop starting and ending in Bergen, so you don't have to backtrack.
Day 1: Arrive in Bergen
- Land at Bergen Airport, pick up your car
- Drive into Bergen, check into accommodation
- Wander Bryggen Wharf – the famous colorful wooden houses
- Fish market for fresh seafood dinner
- Get used to the long days – sunset is after 9PM in May
Day 2: Bergen → Voss → Gudvangen → Flåm (150km, 3 hours driving)
- Leave Bergen after breakfast
- Stop in Voss for coffee – adventure capital of Norway
- Drive the Stalheimskleiva – one of the steepest roads in Norway with 13 hairpin turns
- Incredible views down the valley from the top
- Continue to Gudvangen, take the ferry across the Sognefjord to Flåm
- Check into your accommodation in Flåm
Day 3: Flåm Area Exploration
- Flåm is the most beautiful fjord village you'll ever see
- Do the Flåm Railway – one of the most scenic train rides in the world (book tickets online in advance)
- The train goes from Flåm up to Myrdal through 20 tunnels and past countless waterfalls
- Hike the Aurlandsfjellet mountain road for incredible fjord views if you're feeling energetic
- Drive the Aurlandsfjorden road to Stegastein viewpoint – the platform 650m above the fjord is mind-blowing
- Watch the midnight sun if it's clear – mid-May already has about 18 hours of daylight
Day 4: Flåm → Laerdal → Lom → Geiranger (280km, 5-6 hours driving)
- This is a long driving day but the scenery is incredible the whole way
- Go through the Laerdal Tunnel – the longest road tunnel in the world (24.5km!)
- Stop in Lom for lunch – historic mountain village with wooden stave church
- Continue on the Gamle Strynefjellsvegen – the old mountain road with incredible views (usually open mid-May)
- Descend into the Geiranger valley
- Check into accommodation in Geiranger
Day 5: Geirangerfjord Exploration
- Geirangerfjord is a UNESCO World Heritage site – and it's the most beautiful fjord in Norway
- Drive the Ørnevegen (Eagle Road) – the famous twisty road with hairpin turns going up the mountain
- Stop at the Ørnesvingen viewpoint for the classic postcard view of Geirangerfjord
- Hike to Seven Sisters Waterfall – the waterfall that cascades directly into the fjord
- Optional: Take a fjord cruise to see the waterfalls from the water
- At midnight, watch the sun dip just below the mountains and come right back up – that's midnight sun magic
Day 6: Geiranger → Hellesylt → Stranda → Ålesund (200km, 4.5 hours driving)
- Take the ferry from Geiranger to Hellesylt across the fjord
- Continue to Stranda on the Sunnylvsfjorden
- Drive through the Strandafjorden to Ålesund
- Ålesund is the art nouveau city built entirely after a fire in 1904
- Climb the 418 steps to Mount Aksla for the panoramic view of the city and surrounding islands
- Dinner with fresh fish in one of the harbor restaurants
Day 7: Ålesund → Molde → Andalsnes (180km, 4 hours driving)
- Leave Ålesund and drive along the Atlantic coast
- Stop in Molde – the city of roses, with views across to the Romsdalsalpene mountains
- Continue to Andalsnes – the adventure capital of western Norway
- If you have time, hike the Trollstigen viewing platform (the road is usually open by mid-May)
- The views of the Trollstigen road winding up the mountain are incredible
- Stay overnight in Andalsnes
Day 8: Andalsnes → Dombås → Sognefjell → Bergen (You have two options)
Option A: The Scenic Route (longer, more beautiful)
- Andalsnes → Dombås → Sognefjellsvegen → Lærdal → Bergen (420km, 7-8 hours)
- Sognefjellsvegen is the highest mountain road in Norway (1434m)
- Usually opens in mid-May – the views of the Jotunheimen mountains are incredible
Option B: The Direct Route (shorter)
- Andalsnes → Gudbrandsdalen → Oslo-Bergen highway → Bergen (360km, 5.5-6.5 hours)
- Faster but less scenic
I recommend Option A if the road is open – it's one of the most spectacular mountain drives in Europe. Stop at Jotunheimen National Park for short hikes if you have time.
Day 9: Bergen Area Exploration
If you took the scenic route on Day 8, you'll arrive in Bergen late on Day 8, so use Day 9 to explore:
- Mount Fløyen – take the funicular up for panoramic views of Bergen and the surrounding fjords
- Bergen Aquarium – one of the best in Europe
- Wander the old town streets, shop for Norwegian wool sweaters
- Midnight sun hike if you're feeling energetic
Day 10: Departure from Bergen
- Last minute coffee and photos
- Drive to the airport, return your car
- Head home with thousands of incredible photos
Norway Driving Basics
Norway has some of the best maintained roads in the world, but there are a few things you need to know:
- Drive on the RIGHT (same as continental Europe and USA)
- Seat belts are mandatory for everyone in the car
- Headlights must be on at all times – even during the day, it's the law
- Speed limits: 50km/h in towns, 80-90km/h on rural roads, 110km/h on motorways
- Speed cameras are everywhere – obey the speed limits, the fines are expensive
- Tunnels: Norway has thousands of tunnels – some are very long (like the 24.5km Laerdal tunnel). Just stay in your lane and relax.
- Ferries: You'll need to take several ferries on this trip. They run regularly in May, but check schedules online in advance. Cost: NOK 80-200 per car + passengers.
- Gas/Petrol prices: NOK 17-19 per liter (≈€1.45-€1.65 per liter, which is about $6.20-$7.00 per US gallon). Yes, it's expensive – factor that into your budget.
Accommodation Costs
Norway isn't cheap, but you can find options for every budget:
- Budget: NOK 350-600 per person per night – Camping (camp sites are everywhere and very clean), or guesthouses/B&Bs
- Mid-range: NOK 700-1200 per person per night – Small hotels, cabins with kitchen
- Splurge: NOK 1300+ per person per night – Hotels with fjord views, boutique accommodations
Pro tip: If you're on a budget, rent a cabin with a kitchen and cook your own meals – eating out is expensive in Norway, and this can cut your budget in half.
Food & Drink
Eating out in Norway is expensive, but the food is fresh and delicious:
- Breakfast at hotel: Usually included in the price, and it's a massive buffet that will keep you full until lunch.
- Lunch: Pack a sandwich from a supermarket – it costs way less than eating out. Supermarkets like Rema 1000 and Kiwi have good prices.
- Dinner: Expect to pay NOK 300-500 per person for a main course + drink at a restaurant.
- Must-try: Fresh salmon (Norway has the best in the world), rakfisk (fermented fish – only for the adventurous), brunost (brown cheese – love it or hate it, try it), lefse (Norwegian potato flatbread).
Sample prices (2026):
- Coffee: NOK 40-50 (≈€3.50-€4.50)
- Beer at a bar: NOK 80-110 (≈€7-€10)
- Bottle of water at supermarket: NOK 15-20
- Salmon sandwich at a gas station: NOK 80-100
Best Photo Spots You Can Drive To
- Stegastein Viewpoint (Aurlandsfjord) – 650m above the fjord, incredible views any time of day
- Ørnesvingen Viewpoint (Geirangerfjord) – Classic view of the fjord with the Seven Sisters waterfall
- Stalheimskleiva – The hairpin turns looking down the valley
- Mount Aksla (Ålesund) – Panorama of the art nouveau city
- Sognefjellsvegen – Countless pullouts with views of the Jotunheimen mountains
- Trollstigen Viewpoint – The iconic view of the famous road
May Weather Tips
May weather in western Norway can be unpredictable. Be prepared for:
- Temperatures: 10-18°C (50-64°F) in the lowlands, colder at higher elevations (0-10°C on mountain tops)
- Rain: Bring a waterproof jacket and waterproof pants – the west coast gets a lot of rain. Don't leave home without them.
- Layers: Weather can change quickly – start the morning cold, it can be warm by afternoon. Layers are your friend.
- Midnight sun: Bring a sleep mask for your hotel room if you're sensitive to light – it never gets completely dark at night in late May!
Money Saving Tips
- Travel in May: Accommodation prices are 20-30% cheaper than July-August, and everything is less crowded.
- Cook your own meals: Grocery shopping is affordable compared to eating out. Cabins with kitchens are easy to find.
- Book ferries in advance: Some popular ferry routes charge more if you book on the spot.
- Camping: Camping is the cheapest way to sleep, and Norwegian camp sites are excellent.
- The Bergen Card: If you're staying a few days in Bergen, it gives free public transport and free entry to most museums.
Safety Notes
- Watch for sheep on the road: Norwegian farmers let their sheep graze by the roadside, especially in mountain areas. They can wander onto the road, so be careful especially around curves.
- Fill up your gas tank: In the mountains, gas stations are far apart. Don't let your tank get below half.
- Check road conditions: Before driving mountain passes, check vegvesen.no for the latest opening status. Some high-altitude roads might still be closed in early May.
- Wild camping is legal in Norway (as long as you're far enough from buildings) – this is a great way to save money and camp in incredible spots.
Final Thoughts
Driving Norway's fjords in May during the midnight sun season is an experience you'll never forget. The light is magical – the golden light at midnight is something that you just can't experience any other time of year. The roads are empty compared to July-August, prices are lower, and the snow is just melting, leaving countless waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides.
This itinerary gives you the best of the best – Sognefjord, Geirangerfjord, the dramatic mountain roads, the charming coastal cities, and of course, the midnight sun. You don't need to rush – 10 days gives you enough time to stop and hike, take photos, and just soak in the incredible scenery.
The key is to be prepared for the weather (bring layers and rain gear), rent a comfortable car, and embrace the midnight sun. Even if it rains, the fjords look incredible in the mist – you'll still have an amazing trip.
Pack your camera, charge your batteries, and get ready for one of the greatest road trips in the world. Norway in May is waiting for you.
Cover image: https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1476610182048-b716b8518aae?w=1200&h=630&fit=crop

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