Driving the Amalfi Coast is one of those bucket list road trips that lives up to the hype. One minute you're winding along cliffside roads with the turquoise Mediterranean stretching out below you, the next you're pulling over for fresh limoncello at a roadside stand overlooking the sea. This is the Amalfi Coast – and yes, you should definitely drive it yourself.
May is the absolute best time to tackle this iconic Italian coastal road. The hills are green from spring rains, the lemon groves are fragrant, the weather is perfect for hiking and swimming (around 68-75°F / 20-24°C), and you avoid the insane July-August traffic that can turn this 50km drive into a 5-hour nightmare.
I've driven the Amalfi Coast three times now, and I've put together everything you need to know to plan your trip – from what to expect behind the wheel to where to stop, where to eat, and where to stay.
At a Glance
- Destination: Amalfi Coast (Campania, Italy) - Sorrento → Positano → Amalfi → Ravello
- Recommended Duration: 7-8 days
- Best Time to Go: May-June or September-October (avoid July-August if possible)
- Per Person Budget: €900-€1450
- Difficulty: Challenging (narrow roads, sharp curves, traffic)
- Perfect for: Adventurous drivers, couples, food lovers, photographers
Getting to the Amalfi Coast
Most fly into Naples International Airport (NAP) – it's about an hour's drive from the airport to Sorrento, which is the best starting point for your Amalfi adventure. You can pick up your rental car at the airport, but here's my tip: take a taxi or shuttle to Sorrento first, then pick up your car there. Parking in Sorrento is easier than at Naples airport, and you don't have to deal with Naples city driving.
Car Rental Tips
- Size matters: Rent the smallest car you can comfortably fit into. The roads are narrow, parking spaces are tiny, and smaller cars are easier to maneuver around hairpin turns. I recommend a Fiat 500 or similar – it's what the locals drive.
- **Transmission: Manual transmission is cheaper and more common in Italy. If you can drive stick, get it. Automatic costs extra and can be harder to find last-minute.
- **Insurance: Get full coverage. Parking scrapes are common on the Amalfi Coast, and you don't want to be stuck with a big bill.
- Cost: €35-€70 per day for a small car (cheaper if you book weekly).
The Driving Experience: What to Expect
Let's be honest – driving the Amalfi Coast isn't for everyone. The SS163 Amalfi Drive is only about 50 kilometers from Sorrento to Amalfi, but it will take you 2-3 hours (maybe longer) because:
- It's narrow: In many places, the road is barely wide enough for two cars. When a bus comes, you need to pull over to the edge – sometimes inches from the cliff.
- Hairpin turns everywhere: There are more than 600 curves in 50 kilometers. Your arm will get a workout from turning the steering wheel.
- Tour buses: The big tour buses are the biggest challenge. They go slow and they take up most of the road. Be prepared to back up into pullouts to let them pass.
- Parking is tricky: Finding parking in Positano and Amalfi Town in peak season is like finding a needle in a haystack.
My advice: If you're an inexperienced driver or uncomfortable with narrow winding roads, consider hiring a local driver for a day instead of driving yourself. But if you're up for the challenge, it's completely worth it.
7-Day Amalfi Coast Driving Itinerary
Here's my perfect route, starting from Sorrento and working your way east:
Day 1: Arrive in Sorrento
- Pick up your car, check into your accommodation
- Wander the old town, have pizza at a local pizzeria
- Try the famous limoncello – Sorrento lemons are the best in Italy
- Stay overnight in Sorrento
Day 2: Sorrento → Positano (18km, 45-60 minutes driving)
- Start early (before 8AM!) to beat the traffic and the crowds
- Drive slowly, stop at all the viewpoints
- Check into your Positano accommodation
- Spend the afternoon at Spiaggia Grande
- Have dinner at a cliffside restaurant with a view
Key Stops Between Sorrento and Positano:
- Positano Viewpoint (La Sponda): The classic postcard view of Positano – stop here for photos before you descend into town
- Bomerano: Small town that's the starting point for the famous Path of the Gods hike
Day 3: Explore Positano & Day Trip to Capri
- Park your car at your accommodation – don't drive around Positano once you're there
- Hike a section of the Path of the Gods (you don't need to do the whole thing)
- Optional: Take the ferry to Capri for the day (easier than taking your car)
- Evening aperitivo with a view of the coast
Day 4: Positano → Praiano → Amalfi Town (20km, 1 hour)
- Leave Positano before 9AM
- Stop in Praiano – quieter alternative to Positano, great lunch spot
- Continue to Amalfi Town
- Park at the parking garage outside the old town (it's the only option)
- Explore the Amalfi Cathedral and the old town
Day 5: Amalfi → Ravello → Atrani (10km, 30 minutes)
- Drive up to Ravello – the mountain town with the stunning villa gardens
- Visit Villa Cimbrone and the famous infinity terrace with the "Infinity View"
- Have lunch in Ravello – it's less expensive than the coast towns
- Drive back down to Atrani – the smallest town on the coast, photogenic and authentic
- Stay overnight in Amalfi or Ravello
Day 6: Day Trip to Pompeii or Mount Vesuvius
- Drive inland to Pompeii (about 1 hour from Amalfi)
- Spend 3-4 hours exploring the ancient ruins
- If you're feeling energetic, hike Mount Vesuvius for views of the crater
- Drive back to the coast for dinner
Day 7: Final Morning → Departure
- Last minute coffee and souvenir shopping
- Return your car, head back to Naples or your next destination
Where to Stay
| Town | Budget | Mid-range | Splurge | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sorrento | €40-€60 | €70-€120 | €150+ | Best for first night |
| Positano | €60-€90 | €120-€200 | €250+ | Most iconic, most expensive |
| Praiano | €50-€70 | €80-€140 | €180+ | Quiet, good value |
| Amalfi | €50-€80 | €90-€150 | €200+ | Central location |
| Ravello | €45-€75 | €80-€130 | €160+ | Mountain views, peaceful |
Food & Drink Costs
Italy's Amalfi Coast isn't the cheapest destination in Europe, but you can eat well without breaking the bank:
- Pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice): €1.50-€3 per slice
- Gelato: €2.50-€4
- Coffee at bar: €1-€1.50 (sitting down costs double)
- Lunch at family trattoria: €15-€25 per person (better value than dinner)
- Dinner at nice restaurant with wine: €35-€60 per person
- Fresh fish: Market price, usually €25-€40 per kg
Must-try foods:
- Lemon granita with brioche - The perfect breakfast on a warm morning
- Pasta al limone - Pasta with lemon sauce from local Sorrento lemons
- Fresh burrata - Creamy mozzarella from southern Italy
- Limoncello - You can't leave without trying it (homemade is best)
- Seafood pizza - Fresh from the Mediterranean
Parking Tips (This is Important!)
Parking is the biggest headache on the Amalfi Coast. Here's how to deal with it:
- Most towns have paid parking garages outside the historic centers. These fill up early – arrive before 9AM to get a spot.
- Street parking is rare and almost always full in season. Don't count on it.
- Cost: €5-€15 per day depending on the town and season.
- If you're staying overnight, many hotels have their own parking – sometimes free, sometimes paid (€10-€20 per day). Always ask when you book.
- Don't park in restricted zones (ZTL – Zone a Traffico Limitato). These are camera-monitored, and you'll get an automatic fine (€80-€150) if you enter.
Driving Rules & Safety
- Italians drive on the RIGHT (same as USA, opposite of UK/Australia)
- Speed limit: 50km/h on the coastal road – obey it, there are lots of speed cameras
- Slow down before curves – you can't see what's coming
- When meeting a bus, pull as far right as possible – often into the designated pullouts
- Use your horn when going around blind curves – it's the local custom to signal you're coming
- Gas prices: €1.85-€2.10 per liter (2026 prices) – fill up when you see a station, they're not frequent on the coastal road
Money Saving Tips for May
- May prices are 20-40% cheaper than July-August. The weather is still great, so this is the best deal.
- Eat your main meal at lunch. Most restaurants offer cheaper set menus at lunchtime.
- Stay in Praiano instead of Positano. It's 10 minutes drive from Positano but accommodation is 30% cheaper.
- Buy your limoncello directly from a lemon grove. It's cheaper and better quality than the tourist shops.
- Use the ferry between towns for sightseeing. It's cheaper than driving and you get a better view of the coast.
Best Photo Spots You Can Drive To
- Positano Viewpoint (on the road from Sorrento) – The classic panorama shot
- Villa Cimbrone Infinity Terrace (Ravello) – One of the most photographed views in Italy
- Furore Fjord – Hidden beach under the bridge, great for photos
- Atrani Harbor – The most colorful fishing village on the coast
- Path of the Gods Viewpoint – Panoramic views of the entire coast
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Starting late: Leave early (before 8AM) if you want to find parking and avoid traffic. By 11AM, everything is full.
- Renting too big a car: You will regret it. Small is beautiful on the Amalfi Coast.
- Trying to do the whole drive in one day: It's too much. Take 2-3 days to enjoy it.
- Ignoring the ZTL signs: Those automatic fines are no fun. Just don't do it.
- Stopping in the middle of the road for photos: Pull all the way off into a designated viewpoint parking area. Stopping on the road causes accidents and massive traffic jams.
Final Thoughts
Driving the Amalfi Coast is an adventure you won't forget. Yes, it's challenging. Yes, there's traffic. Yes, parking is a pain. But when you're winding along that cliffside road, with the blue Mediterranean below you and the lemon scent in the air, you'll forget all about the stress.
May is the sweet spot – perfect weather, fewer people, lower prices. You can take your time, stop when you want, eat at the local places, and really experience the magic of this incredible stretch of coast.
Just remember: Small car, early start, plenty of patience, and don't leave without trying the lemon granita. That's all you need for an unforgettable Amalfi Coast road trip.
Cover image: https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1764172355947-8b30e0ca4b0c?w=1200&h=630&q=80&auto=format&fit=crop


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