Most visitors to Greece's islands follow a well-worn circuit: Santorini's volcanic caldera, Mykonos' cosmopolitan beaches, and perhaps a day trip from Athens. But Greece has 6,000 islands and islets, and two of its most extraordinary — Corfu in the Ionian Sea and Crete in the southern Aegean — offer a depth of experience that the celebrity islands simply cannot match. This guide is for travelers who want fewer Instagram crowds and more authentic Greece.
Why Corfu and Crete?
Corfu (Kerkyra): An anomaly in the Greek world — an island shaped more by Venetian, British, and French colonial history than by Ottoman rule. Its capital, Corfu Town, is the only town in Greece with an intact medieval core surrounded by Venetian fortresses, and it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. The island's interior is lush and green (unusual for a Greek island), covered in olive groves and cypress trees, with a coastline alternating between dramatic cliffs and sheltered coves. Corfu has a justified reputation for beauty without the summer overcrowding that affects the Cyclades.
Crete: Greece's largest island and a world unto itself. The birthplace of the Minoan civilization — Europe's first advanced urban culture, which flourished 3,500 years ago — Crete has enough archaeology, landscape, and gastronomy to occupy a dedicated traveler for weeks. It is also the only Greek island where you can hike Europe's longest gorge (Samaria), eat some of the finest traditional food in the Mediterranean, and find almost deserted beaches within an hour of major airports.
When to Go
May and June: The ideal time for both islands. Temperatures are warm but not oppressive (22-27°C on Corfu, 24-28°C on Crete), the sea is swimmable, flowers are in bloom, and tourist infrastructure is fully operational without the August peak-season crowds. This is the Mediterranean summer sweet spot.
July and August: Peak season. Both islands are busy (Corfu particularly so — it's a popular British and Italian holiday destination). Prices are highest, beaches crowded, and accommodation must be booked months ahead. The upside: guaranteed sunshine and warm sea temperatures.
September and October: Excellent for experienced travelers. Crowds thin after mid-September, sea temperatures remain warm through October, prices drop 20-30%, and the light for photography is extraordinary. Many locals consider September the best month.
Avoid: January-February, when ferry services reduce and many restaurants and hotels close for the winter season.
Part One: Corfu — The Emerald Island
Getting There
By air: Corfu International Airport (CFU) is well-served in summer with direct flights from London, Amsterdam, Rome, and many other European cities. It's a 5-minute taxi ride from Corfu Town.
By ferry: Year-round ferry connections from Igoumenitsa (mainland Greece, 90 minutes), Patras (7 hours, overnight), and Brindisi/Bari (Italy, 6-9 hours). The Italian connections make Corfu an excellent starting point for a Greece-Italy itinerary.
Corfu Town: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Corfu Town (Kerkyra) is one of the finest preserved medieval towns in the Mediterranean. Its UNESCO status comes from the extraordinary concentration of Venetian, French, and British architecture packed into a small peninsula — the only Greek city in the entire country with this designation.
The Esplanade (Liston): The long promenade modeled on Paris's Rue de Rivoli, built by the French in the early 19th century. The arcaded café row (I Liston) is the heart of Corfu social life; order a local ginger beer (tsitsibira, made from a recipe introduced by the British) and watch the world pass.
The Old Fortress (Paleo Frourio): The Byzantine and Venetian fortress occupying the eastern promontory, with sweeping views over the Albanian mountains and open sea. The Venetians built much of what stands today in the 15th-16th centuries. Entry: €6. Worth every cent — the views from the highest point are extraordinary.
The New Fortress (Neo Frourio): The 16th-century Venetian fortress on the western side of the old town. Less visited than the Old Fortress, its maze of tunnels and ramparts is wonderful to explore. Entry: €4.
The Church of Agios Spyridon: The island's patron saint, St. Spyridon, lies here in an ornate silver reliquary. The church is a pilgrimage destination for Greeks; the atmosphere inside is moving and the Byzantine frescoes are exceptional.
The Old Town backstreets: The narrow alleys (kantounia) of the old town are perfect for wandering without purpose — each turn reveals a Venetian doorway, a tiny church, or a courtyard garden. The area around Agii Apostoli and Nikiforou Theotoki streets is particularly beautiful.
Beaches: The Best of Corfu's 100+ Coves
Paleokastritsa: Corfu's most dramatic coastal scenery — a series of turquoise coves surrounded by steep forested cliffs, dominated by a 13th-century Byzantine monastery perched on a headland. The water is crystal-clear but the beach gets very busy in July-August. Go early morning.
Glyfada: The island's most popular beach — a long sandy arc backed by tamarisk trees. Well-organized (sun loungers, water sports) and good for families. Best avoided during the August peak.
Porto Timoni: Accessible only by a 20-minute rocky path (or by boat from Afionas village), Porto Timoni is a double beach — two coves separated by a narrow isthmus. Bring water and snacks; there are no facilities. Worth every step.
Agios Gordios: A long, uncrowded beach on the west coast with a backdrop of steep green hills. More of a local beach than a tourist destination; excellent fresh fish at the tavernas on the beachfront.
Sidari: Known for the Canal d'Amour — a series of sandstone arches and channels carved by the sea. Geologically fascinating and less busy than the western beaches. The legend says swimming through the canal will ensure eternal love.
Issos and Chalikounas: Two beaches on the southern tip of the island, near the Korission Lagoon, that are almost empty even in high season. Windy, wild, and extraordinary. A striking counterpoint to the more manicured northern beaches.
The Interior: Olive Groves and Mountain Villages
Achillion Palace: Built by Empress Elisabeth of Austria (Sisi) in 1890, the palace and its extensive garden overlook the sea from a hill 10km from Corfu Town. The mix of neoclassical architecture, Venetian-style gardens, and an extraordinary sea view makes this one of the most memorable visits on the island. Entry: €10.
Pelekas: A hilltop village in the island's interior known for the "Kaiser's Throne" — a viewpoint where Kaiser Wilhelm II reportedly watched sunsets. The view over both the east and west coasts simultaneously is unique to this elevated position.
Olive oil: Corfu produces extraordinary olive oil from its approximately 4 million olive trees. The Corfu olive is a specific cultivar (Lianolia) producing fruity, peppery oil. Look for cold-pressed extra-virgin Corfu PDO oil at local producers and markets.
Kumquat liqueur: Corfu is the only place in Europe that cultivates the Japanese kumquat fruit commercially. The resulting liqueur (Koum Quat) is sweet-sour and distinctly Corfiot; buy it from Mavromatis, the island's main producer, as a genuine local product.
Food in Corfu
Corfiot cuisine reflects its cosmopolitan history — Italian, French, and British influences sit alongside Greek tradition in a cuisine that is distinctly its own.
- Sofrito: The island's signature dish — veal (or beef) slow-cooked with garlic, white wine, and abundant parsley. Tender, aromatic, and different from anything you'll find elsewhere in Greece.
- Pastitsada: The Corfiot version of pastitsio (pasta bake), made with rooster (or beef) in a spiced tomato sauce over thick pasta. Rich and satisfying.
- Bianco: Fish simmered with potatoes, garlic, and lemon — a delicate white fish stew with roots in the Venetian tradition.
- Nougat (mandolato): A Corfiot specialty — honey nougat with almonds, made since the 18th century.
Where to Stay in Corfu
Corfu Town (budget to mid-range): The best base for exploring the island by local bus. Hotels range from €50-80/night for a double room in a guesthouse to €120-200/night in a boutique hotel in the old town.
Villa rentals in the countryside: For groups or families, renting a traditional Corfiot farmhouse surrounded by olive groves is the definitive experience. Rates from €100-300/night depending on size.
Part Two: Crete — An Island Unto Itself
Getting There
By air: Heraklion Nikos Kazantzakis International Airport (HER) receives direct flights from most European cities year-round. Chania International Airport (CHQ) serves western Crete and has excellent summer connections from the UK, Germany, and the Netherlands.
By ferry: Year-round overnight ferry from Piraeus (Athens port) to Heraklion (8-9 hours, departs evening, arrives morning). Also ferries from Piraeus to Chania and Rethymno. The overnight ferry is an experience in itself and saves accommodation for a night.
Heraklion and the Ancient World
Heraklion Archaeological Museum: One of the most important archaeological museums in the world — the definitive collection of Minoan civilization artifacts, including the extraordinary frescos from Knossos Palace (the Bull-Leaping Fresco, the Prince of Lilies), the Phaistos Disc (undeciphered), the Minoan snake goddesses, and thousands of objects from 3,500 years ago. Allow 2-3 hours minimum. Entry: €15. Do not miss this.
Palace of Knossos: The center of the Minoan civilization, 5km from Heraklion. Sir Arthur Evans's 20th-century reconstructions are controversial among archaeologists (some call them "artistic fictions"), but they make Knossos visually accessible in a way that the unrestored sites are not. The scale — the palace covered 13,000 square meters — is genuinely awe-inspiring. Visit early morning (opens at 8am) to beat the tour buses; by 10am the main areas are extremely crowded. Entry: €15.
Heraklion's market (1866 Street): The traditional covered market street is one of the most atmospheric places in Crete — stalls selling herbs, Cretan honey, cheese, olive oil, and the local firewater (tsikoudia/raki). Buy thyme honey, aged graviera cheese, and fresh Cretan olive oil to take home.
The Samaria Gorge: Europe's Longest
The Samaria Gorge in the White Mountains of western Crete is 16km long, descending 1,250 meters from the Omalos Plateau to the Libyan Sea. Europe's longest gorge is also one of its most beautiful — the path follows the Tarraios River through towering vertical walls of limestone (the narrows, where the walls are 3m apart and 200m high, are unforgettable), past the abandoned village of Samaria and the spring of St. Nicholas, to the beach village of Agia Roumeli.
Practical information:
- Season: May 1 to November 15 (closed in winter due to flash flood risk)
- Entry: €5
- Duration: 4-6 hours one-way (the gorge is one-way, downhill)
- Start: Xyloskalo trailhead at Omalos Plateau; bus from Chania (1.5 hours)
- End: Agia Roumeli; boat to Hora Sfakion, then bus back to Chania
- Total trip time from Chania: 8-10 hours
- Fitness level: Moderate — the terrain is rocky but the path is clearly marked. Wear proper shoes; flip-flops are not appropriate.
Early May tip: Snow may still linger on the White Mountains above; mornings can be cold. Pack layers for the top section.
Chania: Western Crete's Most Beautiful Town
Chania's old harbor is one of the most photographed scenes in Greece — a Venetian lighthouse, Ottoman mosque, and elegant arcaded waterfront surrounding a crescent harbor lined with fishing boats. It has also become one of the most touristy spots in Crete, but it remains genuinely beautiful.
The Venetian Harbor and Lighthouse: Walk the entire harbor promenade, including the outer breakwater to the lighthouse. Best at sunset, when the light on the old buildings is extraordinary.
The Old Town backstreets: Away from the harbor, Chania's old town has beautiful neighborhoods to explore: the Splantzia district (Ottoman architecture, quiet squares), the former Jewish quarter (Ovraiki), and the covered market building (Municipal Market, built in the shape of a cross).
The Chania Archaeological Museum (in the former Venetian church of San Francesco): A beautiful collection of Minoan artifacts from western Crete, including the extraordinary Phaistos Disc replica and detailed Linear A tablets. Entry: €8.
Food in Chania: The old harbor restaurants are expensive and mediocre (tourist traps with beautiful views). Walk two streets back for local tavernas with better food at half the price. Must-try: Cretan salad (horiatiki with local graviera cheese instead of feta), dakos (dry rusk topped with tomato and mizithra cheese), and lamb chops from a butcher-grill.
Rethymno: The Perfect Middle Ground
Rethymno (Rethymnon) is often overlooked in favor of Heraklion and Chania, but it may be the most liveable of Crete's cities — a perfectly preserved Venetian old town, an atmospheric Lighthouse harbor, and a long sandy beach immediately east of the old town. It lacks the grand archaeological showpieces of Heraklion and the Instagram-perfect harbor of Chania, but it rewards visitors who want to find local Crete rather than tourist Crete.
The Fortezza: The massive Venetian fortress above the old town — built in 1573 after a disastrous Ottoman raid. The scale is extraordinary (it was built to accommodate the entire civilian population in an emergency), and the views from the battlements over Rethymno and the Cretan Sea are superb. Entry: €4.
The Venetian Old Town: The city's 16th-17th century Venetian architecture is remarkably intact — loggia, minaret (converted mosque), Renaissance fountains. The Rimondi Fountain (1623) and the nearby streets are particularly lovely. The old town is walkable in 2 hours but rewards slower exploration.
Preveli Beach: One of Crete's most striking beaches, accessible by boat from Plakias or by a steep path down from Preveli Monastery. A river meets the sea here, creating a palm tree grove just inland — the combination of river, palms, and turquoise sea is genuinely unique in Europe. The monastery (entry €3) has a beautiful inner courtyard and a piece of the True Cross among its relics.
Eastern Crete: The Quiet End
Eastern Crete is significantly less developed than the west and is where to go for those who want empty beaches, traditional villages, and genuine remoteness.
Spinalonga Island: The well-preserved Venetian fortress on a small island in the Gulf of Elounda, which served as a leper colony until 1957 (the subject of Victoria Hislop's novel The Island). The ruins of the colony, visible exactly as they were left on the colony's final day, are hauntingly atmospheric. Boats from Elounda (€12 roundtrip).
Vai Palm Beach: The only native European palm grove — 5,000 Phoenix theophrastii palms on a crescent beach. Arrive very early (before 9am) to experience it without the tour buses.
Sitia and the eastern route: The fishing town of Sitia is the gateway to the remote Toplou Monastery (one of Crete's most important, with a magnificent 15th-century icon room) and the extraordinary deserted beaches of the eastern tip (Xerokambos, Kato Zakros).
Cretan Food: The Best Regional Cuisine in Greece
Crete is widely regarded as having the finest regional cuisine in Greece. It combines the healthiest elements of the Mediterranean diet (olive oil, legumes, wild greens, fresh fish, minimal processed food) with traditional techniques preserved by geographic isolation.
- Dakos: A soaked barley rusk topped with chopped tomatoes, mizithra cheese (a whey cheese), olive oil, and dried oregano. Simple, fresh, and extraordinarily good.
- Gamopilafo: A wedding rice dish — short-grain rice cooked in rich goat/lamb broth, then finished with butter. Silky, rich, deeply satisfying.
- Stamnagathi: A wild Cretan greens salad, unique to the island.
- Apaki: Smoked, vinegar-marinated pork — an ancient preservation method that produces extraordinary cured meat.
- Tsikoudia/Raki: Cretan firewater, distilled from grape pressings. Every meal in a Cretan taverna ends with a complimentary glass and the equivalent of a dessert platter. Refusing is considered impolite.
- Graviera: Crete's PDO hard cheese — nutty, slightly sweet, excellent with local honey and walnuts.
- Cretan olive oil: The highest per-capita olive oil consumption in the world produces extraordinary local oil. Buy cold-pressed from the harvest (November-January) at local cooperatives.
Combined Corfu-Crete Itinerary: 12-14 Days
Days 1-4: Corfu
- Day 1: Arrive Corfu, explore Corfu Town (Old Fortress, Liston, old quarter)
- Day 2: Paleokastritsa, Glyfada beach, Pelekas village
- Day 3: Achillion Palace, central Corfu countryside, Porto Timoni
- Day 4: Sidari, Canal d'Amour, northern beaches; evening boat to Igoumenitsa or late flight
Days 5-14: Crete
- Day 5: Fly or ferry to Heraklion; Heraklion Archaeological Museum
- Day 6: Knossos Palace; explore Heraklion market and waterfront
- Day 7: Drive west to Rethymno; Fortezza, old town
- Day 8: Drive to Chania; Venetian harbor, old town exploration
- Day 9: Samaria Gorge (full day); evening at Agia Roumeli
- Day 10: West Crete beaches: Elafonisi (pink sand), Falassarna
- Day 11: Drive east; Spinalonga Island, Elounda
- Day 12: Eastern Crete: Toplou Monastery, Vai Palm Beach
- Day 13: Sitia, Kato Zakros beach; return toward Heraklion
- Day 14: Depart from Heraklion
Budget Guide
Corfu
| Category | Budget | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | €35-55/night | €80-150/night |
| Food (dinner for 2) | €25-35 | €55-80 |
| Local bus/day | €3-5 | €3-5 |
| Beach entry | Free most beaches | Free |
| Key sites | €6-10 each | Same |
Crete
| Category | Budget | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Accommodation | €35-60/night | €85-160/night |
| Food (dinner for 2) | €25-40 | €55-90 |
| Car rental | €35-55/day (essential) | €55-90/day |
| Samaria Gorge + ferry | €20/person | Same |
| Key archaeological sites | €10-15 each | Same |
Important: A rental car is strongly recommended for Crete (unlike Corfu, where buses are adequate). The island is large and the best beaches and villages are not accessible by public transport.
Visa and Entry
Greece is a Schengen area country. EU/EEA citizens: no visa required. Citizens of the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, UK: visa-free for up to 90 days within a 180-day period in the Schengen Area.
Note: The EU's ETIAS pre-travel authorization system for visa-exempt third-country nationals (expected to launch in 2025-2026) requires an online application (approximately €7) before travel to Greece and other Schengen countries. Check current requirements before booking.
Getting Between Islands
Direct flights Corfu-Heraklion are not common; most routes connect via Athens (1-2 hours). Alternatively, take a ferry from Corfu to Patras or Igoumenitsa, then bus/train to Athens for an overnight ferry to Crete. Allow 2 days for the overland-ferry combination.
The cleanest routing: fly Corfu → Athens (45 minutes), connect to Heraklion or Chania (50 minutes).
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